But if you want a stand alone design that has its own USB cable you will need a control board like the DSD or Leo Bodnar or Īs for parts like the resivour, this seller has really cheap stuff įor the hydraulic lines, the easiest thing to do would be to take your components to a local automotive brake shop and get the hoses made up.Hand brakes are an important component in rallying and are frequently used in drifting and autotests in order to carry more speed through corners and to have an extra level of control over the balance of the car. The other problem is how do you get the signal from the transducer to your sim? Since this type of transducer outputs 0.5-4.5v and the brake pedal in my G27 uses 0-5v I should be able to just replace the wires going to the G27 and have it work. The transducer I ordered is rated for 700psi, but I will use it for a brake pedal which will see more force. This is why some people put in a pressure gauge so its more easy to tune. I really don't know if this is going to be good though, if your system pulls 200 psi or more it will destroy the transducer.
Best hydraulic handbrake full#
This means if your system can get 100psi when pulling with your full strength you will get 0.5v to 4.5v output.
The one you showed has a working pressure range of 0-100 psi and a burst pressure of 200psi. The tricky part I found is in selecting the correct transducer (they come in different pressure ratings and output voltages) and then finding a way to get the signal from there into your sim. The pressure transducer is T-ed of the line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, this directly measures the pressure inside the lines and gives out a voltage signal that you can use as an input for the sim. This gives the resistance and by adjusting the hardness of the rubber you can adjust the amount of throw on the lever and the feel. You use this pulling motion to squish the rubber bushings. Which means when its all hook up, and you pull the brake lever it will send hydraulic pressure through the lines, pulling in the shaft inwards towards the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder - It is a pull type used for clutches. I got some time now to give some more details. I was then hoping to wire the pressure transducer to a Arduino UNO R3 board I did find what I believe is a very similar or identical Slave Cylinder on ebay Is the hard nolathane bushing on the DSD design the black part that the ebay slave cylinder doesn't have? Where can I find this and how would one attach it to the slave cylinder? Can anyone possibly comment on this? To me it would look like it would lock up instantly without the slave cylinder.Īlso, what is a "hard nolathane bushing"? And how does it affect the slave cylinder? I couldn't really find much info about this. To me that makes sense as the brake fluid would just be getting "squeezed" and not really have anywhere to go. Someone online created a similar design, but left out the slave cylinder and someone commented that without the slave cylinder it would pressurize too quickly and feel unnaturally stiff. My goal is to make the feel of the hand brake as realistic as possible. I've been somewhat modeling my design off of the DSD Hydraulic Handbrake (Six Close Up Pictures) From what I understand, from reading their website and from users around the web, it's a real hydraulic handbrake hooked up to a "slave Cylinder"/"hard nolathane bushing" and a pressure transducer (which is wired to a microcontroller/PC).
Best hydraulic handbrake simulator#
I'm building my first rally car simulator and I'm currently working on a hydraulic handbrake.
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